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Writing Type: Book
An account of his journey through Mexico from Veracruz to the US border, via Mexico City.
Keywords: Mexico, women, women´s clothes, fighting,
Publisher: John Murray, Albemarle Street
Archive: John Rylands Library
Text:
p.43
I must here explain here that, in Mexico, people with fair hair and complexions are called guëra and, from the caprice of human nature, the guëro is always a favourite of the fair sex: the same as, in our country, the olive coloured foreigners with black hair and beards are thought such loves "by our fair countrywornen. The guëro, however, shares this favouritism with the genuine unadulterated negro, who is also greatly admired by the Mejicanas.
After leaving the pulqueria, we visited, without suspicion, the dens where these people congregate for the night – filthy cellars, where men, women, and children were sleeping, rolled in sarapes playing at cards, furiously smoking, quarrelling and fighting. In one we were attracted to the corner of a room, whence issued the low sobs of a woman, and, drawing near the spot as well as the almost total darkness would admit, I saw a man, pale and ghastly, stretched on a sarape, with the blood streaming from a wound in the right breast, which a half naked woman was trying in vain to quench.
He had just been stabbed by a lepero with whom he had been (p.44) playing at cards and quarrelled, and who was coolly sitting within a yard of the wounded man, continuing his game with another, the knife lying before him covered with blood.
The wound was evidently mortal; but no one present paid the slightest attention to the dying man, excepting the woman, who, true to her nature, was endeavouring to relieve him.
After seeing everything horrible in this region of crime, we took an opposite direction, and, crossing the city, entered the suburb called the Barrio de Santa Anna.
This quarter is inhabited by a more respectable class of villains. The ladrones à caballo knights of the road make this their rendezvous, and bring here the mules and horses they have stolen. It is also much frequented by the arrieros, a class of men who may be trusted with untold gold in the way of trade, but who are, when not "en atajo" (unemployed), as unscrupulous as their neighbours. They are a merry set and the best of companions on the road; make a great deal of money, but, from their devotion to pulque and the fair sex, are always poor. "Gastar dinero como arriero" "to spend money like an arriero" is a common saying.
In a meson much frequented by these men we found a fandango of the first order in progress. An atajo having arrived from Durango, the arrieros belonging to it were celebrating their safe arrival by entertaining their friends with a bayle; and into this my friend, who was "one of them," introduced me as an amigo particular a particular friend.
The entertainment was al fresco, no room in the meson being large enough to hold the company; consequently the dancing took place in the corral, and under the portales, where sat the musicians, three guitars and a tambourine, and where also was good store of pulque and mezcal.
The women, in their dress and appearance, reminded me of the manolas of Madrid. Some wore very picturesque dresses, and all had massive ornaments of gold and silver. The majority, however, had on the usual poblana enagua, a red or yellow kind of petticoat, fringed or embroidered, over the simple chemisette, which, loose and unconfined, except at their waists, displayed most prodigally their charms. Stockings are never worn by this class, but they are invariably very particular in their chaussure, (p.45) a well fitting shoe, showing off their small well formed feet and ankles
The men were all dressed in elaborate Mexican finery, and in the costumes of the different provinces of which they were natives
The dances resembled, in a slight degree, the fandango and arabe of Spain, but were more clumsy, and the pantomimic action less energetic and striking. Some of the dances were descriptive of the different trades and professions. El Zapatero, the shoe maker; el Sastroncito, the little tailor; el Espadero, the swordsman, &c., were amongst those in the greatest demand; the guitar players keeping time and accompanying themselves with their voices in descriptive songs.
The fandango had progressed very peacefully, and good humour had prevailed until the last hour, when, just as the dancers were winding up the evening by renewed exertions in the concluding dance, the musicians, inspired by pulque, were twanging with vigour their relaxed catgut, and a general chorus was being roared out by the romping votaries of Terpsichore, above the din and clamour a piercing shriek was heard from a corner of the corral, where was congregated a knot of men and women who chose to devote themselves to the rosy god for the remainder of the evening, rather than the exertions of the dance. The ball was abruptly brought to a conclusion, every one hastening to the quarter whence the shriek proceeded.
Two men with drawn knives in their hands were struggling in the arms of several women, who strove to prevent their enocunter - one of the women having received an ugly wound attempt, which had caused the shriek of pain which had alarmed the dancers.
"Que es eso?" What is this? asked a tall powerful Durangueño, elbowing his way through the crowd. "Que quieren esos gallos?" What do those gamecocks want? "A' pelear?" To fight, eh? "Vamos, a ver los toros" Come, let us see the fun! In an instant a ring was formed; men and women standing at a respectabledistance, out of reach of the knives. Two men held the combatants, who, with sarapes rolled round their arms, passion darting out of their fiery eyes, looked like two bulldogs ready for the fray.
p.46
At a signal they were loosed at each other, and, with a shout, rushed on with uplifted knives. It was short work with them, for at the first blow the tendons of the right arm of one of them were severed, and his weapon fell to the ground; and as his antagonist was about to plunge his knife into the body of his disarmed foe, the bystanders rushed in and prevented it, at the same moment that the patrulla (the patrol) entered the corral with bayonets drawn, and sauve qui peut was the word; a visit to the Acordada being the certain penalty of being concerned in a brawl where knives have been used, if taken by the guard. For myself, with a couple of soldiers at my heels, I flew out of the gate, and never stopped until I found myself safe under the sheets, just as daybreak was tinging the top of the cathedral.
Society in Mexico, although good, is not much sought after by the foreign residents, who have that resource amongst themselves; neither do the Mexicans themselves care to mix with those out of their own circle. The Mexican ladies are totally uneducated, and in the presence of foreigners, conscious of their inferiority, are usually shy and reserved. This of course refers only to general society. In their own houses, and amongst themselves, they are vivacious, and unaffectedly pleasing in their manners and conversation; and in all classes is evinced a warmth of heart and sympathy which wins for the women of Mexico the respect and esteem of all strangers. As for their personal attractions, I will say, that, although not distinguished for beauty, I never once remember to have seen a really ugly woman. Their brilliant eyes make up for any deficiency of feature, and their figures, uninjured by frightful stays, are full and voluptuous. Now and then, moreover, one does meet with a perfectly beautiful creature; and when a Mexican woman does combine such perfection she is "some pumpkins," as the Missourians say when they wish to express something superlative in the female line.
For everything connected with the manners and mantua making of Mexico, the reader is recommended to consult Madame Calderon de la Barca, who, making allowances for the couleur de rose with which she tints all her pictures, is a lively painter of men, manners, and millinery.
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