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Letters in which he describes meeting 84 year old Juana Ysquibel and his stay at her large country estate.
Keywords: Robertson, Asunción society and culture, Juana Ysquibel, Dr. Francia
Publisher: AMS Press Inc., New York
Archive: University of Warwick Library
Location Details: Volume 1, pp.305-329.
Text: Letter to J.G. from JPR
Discusses the great-grandmother of don Gregorio de la Cerda, Juana de Ysquibel, from Asunción.
p.305
Her name (and it was a very old family name) was Doña Juana Ysquibel.
I had long been looking out for a country house; but could fine none exactly to please me. Compadre La Cerda knew this. He had determined I should occupy part of Doña Juana's, and a simple hint from the all powerful godfather was sufficient to ensure a ready compliance with his desire. To me he never said a word of his project; but one day, I received from the old lady herself, a note written in quite a legible character to this effect
"I understand from my compadre La Cerda" (you will perceive that though he was only the godfather of her great grand daughter’s family, she called him her's), that you want a house in the country. Though mine is none of the best" (it was the very best), "I shall expect you to take up your abode in it, whenever you like, after to morrow. I will take no excuse, at least till you can better suit yourself. I shall hold three apartments, and the necessary attendance at your service.
(Signed) JUANA DE YSQUIBEL.
p.306
I could scarcely credit the testimony of my own eyes, as I read the note. I had never seen the lady above twice; and in doubt as to whether it proceeded from her, I carried it to compadre La Cerda. He laughed at my incredulity; gave me to understand that it was all his doing; and that unless I complied, I should put an affront upon the octogenarian lady that she would never recover. I went a few days afterwards, and took possession of my spacious apartments at Doña Juana's house in Campo Grande. In rude fashion, but with overflowing hospitality was I received by her, and waited upon by her numerous slaves. The house stood embosomed in an orange grove; it was surrounded by a wooded country richly contrasted with small intervening valleys and clear streams. Game of every kind abounded within a few hundred yards of the house. Horses were at my service, and servants too; Doña Juana, having once received me within her gate, thought her honour compromised, her reputation for hospitality at stake, unless everything that could contribute to my comfort and happiness were as complete as she (p.307) could make it; and it was all on the simple recommendation of her great grand daughter's compadre, La Cerda.
Yours, &c.
J. P. R.
p.308 LETTER XXV
To J G , ESQ.
Doña Juana Ysquibel A Serio Comic Affair Preparatious for a Fête Champêtre.
London, 1838.
DOÑA JUANA YSQUIBEL was one of the most extraordinary women I ever saw. In Paraguay, women fade generally into old age at forty. Yet Doña Juana was eighty four; and though necessarily shrivelled and grey, she still preserved a vivacity of eye, a hilarity of disposition, and an activity, both of body and of mind, which exemplified the truth of the saying, that "there is no general rule without an exception."
I was entertained by her "en Prince." There is in the Spanish character, especially as it was then enlarged by South American abundance, such a magnificent conception of the word "hospitality," (p.309) that I allowed it, with proper demonstrations of reciprocal. courtesy and favours on my part, to proceed, on that of Doña Juana, to a great extent. In the first place, her whole household establishment, servants, horses, viands, produce of her estate, were at my disposal. Then, if I accidentally admired any thing she had, a favourite palfrey, rich filagree, choice specimens of tambouring, preserved sweetmeats, or a pair of handsome mules, they were instantly made over to me in a way to render their reception unavoidable. A gold snuff box, because I said it was very pretty, was brought by a slave one morning into my room; and a ring of brilliants because I one day happened to look at it, was laid on my table, with a note which made its acceptance imperious. Nothing was cooked in the house but what it was known I liked; and though I endeavoured in as many ways as possible, at once to compensate for this onerous civility, and to show that I felt it to be rather overwhelming, yet I found all my efforts to diminish it ineffectual.
I was, therefore, determined to quit my over-hospitable abode, when a circumstance occurred (p.310) which, however incredible, is most true; and it changed, and placed on a better footing, my subsequent intercourse with this singular woman.
I was fond of the plaintive airs sung by the Paraguayans, and accompanied by the guitar. Doña Juana knew this; and to my great surprise, when I came home one evening from town, I found her, under the direction of a guitarista, or master of the guitar, endeavouring, with her cracked voice, to sing a triste, and with her lank, brown, and wrinkled fingers, to manage an accompaniment to it on the guitar. How could I do otherwise, on beholding such a spectacle of second childhood, than, in defiance even of the lady's sensitive nature, break out into a smile, expressive of derision. "For God's sake," said Doña Juana, how can you, fourteen years after the time when, according to the laws of humanity, you should have been in the grave either make yourself such a butt for the ridicule of your enemies, or such an object for the compassion of your friends ?"
The exclamation, I confess, even though addressed to a woman of eighty four, was not a (p.311) gallant one: for where age is concerned, what woman can bear a taunt?
That Doña Juana, in this respect, had all the weakness of her sex, was very soon apparent. Down she flang the guitar; she ordered the singing master unceremoniously out of the house; the servants she sent out of the room; and then, with a fierceness of aspect, of which I little thought her capable, she astounded me by the following address: Señor Don Juan: little did I expect such an insult from the man whom I have loved:" and on the latter word she laid no ordinary emphasis. Yes," (she continued) loved. I was prepared, I am still prepared to offer you my hand and my estate. If I was learning to sing, and to play the guitar, for whose sake was it but yours? What have I studied, what have I thought of for whom have I lived during the last three months but for you? and is this the return which I meet with ?"
Here the old lady exhibited a curious combination of the ridiculous, the pathetic, and the passionate, as, melting into tears, and yet sobbing with indignation she gave vent to her feelings.
(p.312)The scene was one of striking novelty, not unalloyed with alarm on* my part, on account of the poor old woman. I therefore left the room; sent her female servants to her; told them their mistress was seriously ill; and after hearing that all alarm was over, I went to bed, not knowing whether most to pity, or to smile at, the tender passion which a youth of twenty had excited in the susceptible bosom of a lady of eighty four.
I hope I shall stand exonerated from any charge of vanity in relating the pathetic tale. I do it simply to exemplify the well known aberrations of that most ardent yet capricious of all the deities, Cupid. There is no age beyond the reach of his shaft. The octogenarian and the youthful swain are alike his victims; and his pranks are generally the most frolicsome when all things external, age, habits, decrepitude, have combined to render the idea of his access to the heart incredible and absurd.
At Doña Juana's request, I went next morning to her chamber; and whether it be that a night's rest has no small effect in soothing the feelings, or that my reasonings with her, accompanied by a reluctant protest that I must (p.313) leave her house, unless she would give me a formal promise no longer to make love, or to play the guitar, I know not: but certain it is, that she was reconciled to my remaining, under a solemn league and covenant on her part, that I should neither receive any more presents, nor hear anything more of love or music.
The day of St. John was at hand. It is a very grand and festive day in all Catholic countries ; and it was not only the day of Doña Juana's saint, but of mine. She proposed, as a proof of her complete forgiveness of my rejection of her suit, to celebrate the day at her house in Ytapúa or Campo Grande, by a fête champêtre. "Thus," she said, "we shall at once honour our saint, and show the sincerity of our mutual forgiveness. I confess I have been very foolish in this matter : "pero eso se acabó" "that is all over.’ "
I cordially assented to the celebration of the proposed fête, on the express condition that it was to be at my expense. This knotty point being also settled, Doña Juana and I proceeded to Assumption to invite the guests, she on a prancing palfrey, with two handsome female mulatto grooms; and I by her side, on a not despicable (p.314) bay gelding, with a black man servant behind me.
There was no such thing known, in Paraguay, as the ceremony of issuing cards of invitation a month before the day appointed for a fête, nor indeed of issuing cards of invitation at all. The simple practice was for the parties, at whose houses it was to be held, to go round, personally, three days before its celebration, to their various friends, and bid them to the supper, the dinner, the wedding, or the dance, as the case might be. I was now not only acquainted, but intimate, with high and low, rich and poor, in Assumption. Though there was a distinction there, and even a marked one, of classes and grades, there was none of that refinement, known in Europe, by which a man of a certain rank loses caste by visiting in a lower. This arose, of course, out of the different constitution of the society in Paraguay from that of more advanced countries. The whole structure of human intercourse was less complicated in the isolated regions of the departed Jesuits than in the more populous kingdoms of civilized Europe. On the comparative advantages to be derived from the (p.315) simplicity of a Paraguay life, and from the refinement of a European one, I think with Sir Roger de Coverley, that much might be said on both sides: but eschewing the discussion of the subject, I shall leave you to philosophize on it, according to your humour, from the facts, which I have already related, and have yet to detail illustrative of the nature of Paraguay society.
Doña Juana and I arrived at Assumption, in time to go through, in one day, the ceremony of paying a personal visit to every one of the guests, of which we had made out the list, that were to be invited to celebrate the festival of St. John at Ytapúa. Of course the members of the government were first asked ; and none of them refused to come. Then Don Gregorio de la Cerda, the almost universal. compadre of Paraguay, and the other officers of rank and note followed the post master general; collector of the customs; clergy, both secular and regular; quarteleros, or officers of the barracks; General Velasco, the old Spanish governor; a few farmers; a few merchants; a few shopkeepers; all consented to chants; come, and were, as we say, in accepting the invitation, "most happy."
(p.316)
Things being thus preliminarily arranged for the grand fête, Doña Juana and myself set in earnest about making the necessary preparations for giving it éclat. In these we were aided by a great many families in Assumption : and the account of what passed I shall next proceed to give you.
Yours, &c.
J. P. R.
p.317
LETTER XXVI.
To J G , ESQ.
FATE AT YTAPÜA.
Celebration of the day of St. John His Shrine and Image - Arrival of the Company; and first of the Friars of the Members of Government of Don Gregorio de la Cerda and his Comadres of the Officers of the Quartel, or barracks of miscellaneous groups and of General Velasco, the late Spanish Governor Corn men cement of the mirth Paraguay peasantry and the guitar The festivities Breaking up of the party.
London, 1838.
THE natal day of St. John dawned auspicious on Ytapúa. The most sumptuous and abundant arrangements were made by Doña Juana, as well in honour of her saint, as for the good cheer of her guests. These amounted to about two hundred, and embraced all grades, from the members of the government, down to the shopkeepers of Assumption, After what I have told you of Dr. Bargas and his wine stores, you will see that there was no degradation attached to (p.318) the profession of vending by retail in Paraguay. Tout au contraire: your tendero, or shopkeeper, being generally the more substantial man of the two, took precedence of your country gentleman; who, little acquainted either with the value of land, or the dignity conferred in some countries, by the possession of it, looked up with respect to the shopkeeper's bags of dollars, and down with a sigh of regret upon his own less prosperous condition. "Un pobre estanciero" " un pobre hacendado" " a poor breeder of cattle on my own estate" "a poor cultivator of my own lands" were expressions as common as those of "un comerciante poderoso" "un tendero rico'' '' an affluent merchant" " a rich shopkeeper." For my own part, carrying my European associations always with me, I never could look but with, respect on the patriarchal descendants of the first conquerors of Paraguay, who had inherited their lands from their ancestors, and cultivated them from generation to generation, with rude, but successful simplicity.
But to return to Ytapúa. Doña Juana's first care was to decorate with uncommon splendour a large image of St. John the Evangelist, which, in (p.319) a costly crystal box, she preserved as the chief ornament of her principal sala or drawing room. He was painted anew, and re gilt; he had a black velvet robe purchased for him, and trimmed with deep gold lace. Hovering over him was a cherub, and with more historical propriety than I should have expected from a Roman Catholic artist in Paraguay, there were thrown up behind the saint some artificial rocks, moss, and trees, meant to represent the Isle of Patmos, in which he wrote the Apocalypse. Every friend of Doña Juana had lent some part of her jewellery for the decoration of the holy man. Rings sparkled on his fingers; collars hung around his neck; a tiara graced his venerable brow. The lacings of his sandals were studded with pearls; a precious girdle bound his slender waist; and six large wax candles were lighted up at the shrine. There, embosomed in flagrant ever-greens, the orange, the lime, the acacia, stood the favourite saint, destined to receive the first homage of every guest that should arrive.
The orange groves on either side of the house were festooned with variegated lamps, ready to be lit. The tables were laid out by the best (p.320) confectioners in Assumption: the old governor's cooks were hired for the occasion : and every one was requested to bring as many of his own domestics as he could.
Preliminaries being thus duly and in order arranged, Doña Juana and I took our seats upon the lawn, and there awaited the approach of our guests, with all the self complacency consequent upon a conscientious conviction that no pains had been spared to provide, either for their comfort or amusement.
No sooner had the sun begun to lay his slanting beams athwart the umbrageous outlets, which conduct from Assumption to the adjacent country, than horses, mules, carts, carriages, vehicles of every description were put in motion for Ytapúa.
First of all, came prancing up the lawn to Doña Juana's house, a goodly company of Franciscan friars, preceded by the band of their monastery, and mounted on horses, sleek and fat, and richly caparisoned. Each friar carried his umbrella; and though clothing of sackcloth and absence of linen and stockings, bespoke his humility ; yet the plump and portly appearance of all, very much in keeping with the condition of their (p.321) horses, told a latent tale of ease and good living, which could scarcely escape the notice of the most charitable observer. In saying that this venerable body came attended by the band of the convent, it may be necessary to explain that in Assumption, every convent had its band for the celebration, in the first instance, of high mass; but in the second, also, for the purpose of being hired out, with the charitable view of promoting festive hilarity. Have you ever been in one of our old-fashioned country churches in England. where the clodpole performers of the orchestra lord it at once over priest and congregation? Such a band as you have heard there will convey to you an exact idea of those, which, from the time of the conquest of Paraguay, had edified, in Assumption, the parishioners, and formed, on excursions such as that to Ytapúa, part of the retinue of the priests. The Franciscan friars, to the number of eight, alighted from their horses, and after them, the Dominicans, Mercedarios, and Recoletanos. They all kneeled and took off their hats to St. John: Jubiláte was played by the band: and then followed refreshments and congratulations, just as you might suppose them (p.322) to take place in civilized and even polished society in England.
There was no stabling for the horses of such a company as we expected ; and therefore the whole successive troops that bore their masters were let into a large potrero, or paddock, for the night.
Scarcely had we done the honours to our monastic friends, when, in a lumbering carriage of nearly a century back the old government state carriage of Assumption appeared the wives of the members of the junta. They were escorted by their husbands, mounted on gallant chargers, and dressed in ball room costume. Their heavy sabres dangled by their sides; yet they were clothed in short knee breeches and silk stockings; while their horses, trained for such special occasions to dance (and so called baylarines, or dancers), moved on by the side of the carriage that dragged its ponderous weight through ruts of sand often eight and ten inches deep. The carriage having set down, and the gentlemen dismounted on the lawn, the horses were sent, as before, to the paddock, and the vehicle to the back part of the house.
This party was succeeded by Don Gregorio de (p.323) la Cerda, and twelve or fourteen of his comadres. The latter were in caravans with awnings over them, and mattresses under the ladies, to break the shock of the constant jolting of the clumsy waggons. They were drawn each by four oxen, and moved at the rate of two miles an hour. Then six out of the twelve comadres had infants with them. Don Gregorio (their guardian angel) was mounted on a superb white horse, caparisoned after the highest style of Spanish luxury and antiquity; and he, had one favourite godson before, and another behind him. He was dressed in a light drab coat, with large mother of pearl buttons, an embroidered waistcoat, silk stockings, and golden knee and shoe buckles; of course he wore a very high cocked hat; and an ample scarlet capote, or cloak, was thrown gracefully over his shoulders. No man was ever so rich in godchildren as Don Gregorio; and therefore no man I ever saw in America was so potent. If a man wishes to become, in that country, a first rate character, let him lay himself out to become a general godfather.
After Don Gregorio, came groups of officers in full dress, escorting each, on horseback, his (p.324) favourite Dulcinea. In many cases the lady rode on a pillion behind her dragoon; and not a few palfreys were mounted by two Paraguayan sylphs, escorted by their favourite paysitos, or young country beaux. In poured the tenderos, or shop. keepers, in all the. finery of upstart wealth and vulgarity; in came Dr. Bargas, powdered, and pomatumed, and frizzled from top to toe. In came the merchants, full of "wise saws and modern instances;" and finally, in came the late gentleman like, modest, and dignified Spanish governor, General Velasco. He was attended simply by his butler and valet de chambre, (for the faithful man served him in both capacities) and a groom.
All his power was gone; his honours were laid in the dust: there were his rivals revelling in those attributes and distinctions which. but a few months ago were exclusively his own; and yet not a frown, not a symptom of jealousy or mortified pride clouded his brow. Good man! How little he deserved the awful fate which at a subsequent period overtook him during Francia's indiscriminating and unrelenting reign of terror.
p.325
By the time the whole party was assembled, the shades of evening were beginning to throw their sombre hues over the scene of the lawn. The sun set in great splendour, and the moon rose in equal brightness. The firmament was studded with stars: at a given signal the whole house was lit; the orange grove appeared in a blaze; up struck the bands of the convents; and, some upon the lawn, some in the saloons, but all somewhere, commenced a simultaneous dance. The brilliancy of the light on the spot, and the chastened transparency of the country and atmosphere in the distance, reminded me of the night gambols of fairies, in haunts. not yet encroached upon by human beings. What added greatly to the romantic simplicity of the scene was, that, ever and anon, little groups of Paraguayan peasantry, uninvited, except by the report they had heard of the rejoicings that were to take place at Doña Juana's, came through the valley in different directions. They were escorted by one or two guitarreros (players on the guitar), who accompanied themselves on that instrument to some plaintive triste, or. national ballad. As they emerged from behind the copses, or came (p.326) out from the surrounding dark woods, in their white dresses, they looked in the distance like inhabitants of another world; and as their simple and harmonious music came undulating from different quarters upon the breeze, one might have fancied it a choral contribution of the shepherds of Arcadia.
Very different were the revels within, and immediately around the dwelling of Doña Juana. Some were dancing on the lawn; some in the saloons; some were cracking jokes amid peals of laughter loud and long; here was a party of friars busy at malilla (or whist), and there another rejoicing in the pleasures of the tempting wines and viands which were spread out for all. A few of the more bold of the holy fathers were winding through the mazes of the dance. They were distinguishable chiefly by their bulk from their fair partners, both being clad in petticoats. Then there was Don Gregorio de la Cerda, who thought his reputation at stake unless he kept the mothers of his godchildren (his comadres) in a state of perpetual self complacency, or irresistible laughter. Don Fernando de la Mora, a member of the junta, danced with the gout, and (p.327) like Andromache, when parting from Hector, laughed and cried at the same moment.
Here was a personage, named Bedoya, nearly seven feet high, and with latitudinal amplitude. much more than proportioned to his longitudinal dimensions. Still he was dancing with no small glee, and perspiring with no little profusion. The members of the government threw off all restraint, and danced, drank, and smoked cigars,. just like the rest of their subjects. Up got Doña Juana, in her eighty fourth year, and danced a sarandîg, or heel dance; swains with their nymphs crowded the orange grove, and each there wooed the lass he loved. The servants collected in groups round the fires lit in the groves for their cooking purposes; every little singing company, as it came up, was accommodated with room, and entertained with good cheer; defiance seemed to be bidden to the ills of life; and, uncouth as was the music of the church choirs, and vociferous as was the din of the guests, yet the whole scene had an air thrown over it of abundance, simplicity, and cordial hilarity, which I shall not soon forget.
Both the light and the music of the revels (p.328) must have reached Dr. Francia's cottage; and at this very time he was planning those schemes which have since been carried into execution, and have at once hushed the sound of hilarity, and extinguished the light of liberty.
The old Spanish Governor Velasco observed to me with remarkable and foreboding emphasis: "Ah, Mr. Robertson, I am afraid this is the last scene of festivity we shall ever see in Paraguay "
At length the day broke in upon our revelries. The ladies began to look very wan, and the candles and lamps to grow very dim. The lungs of the musicians were exhausted; some of the friars had lost their money at cards, and many of the guests their wits over their wine. Mothers looked after their daughters. servants after their carriages and carts. Many husbands were, by their wives, caught napping, but all were obliged to obey orders. They ran into the paddock to catch their horses, and afterwards busied themselves in saddling them. Warm coffee and chocolate were handed round ; servants bustled, and equipages started ; troops of hallooing horsemen took the road; off went the friars and off with (p.329) them the musicians. By nine o'clock in the morning, there was nothing left to behold but the vestiges of the gaiety of the night past.
Yours, &c.
J. P. R.
School of Modern Languages and Cultures
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