Numerical Modelling of Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics
Main Investigator : Dr Nick Dodd

Researcher(s) :Laura Machady
Research Group: Coast, Estuary and Rivers Group
Started : Oct 1, 2001
Due for completion: Sept 30, 2004

Project Synopsis

Nearshore circulation patterns are evident at many coasts in the form of rip currents. These rapid-flowing offshore directed currents form part of the overall wave-induced circulation, which is generated as waves refract and shoal, and eventually break on a beach. These currents, which also include an alongshore current, also feedback onto the wave-field that generated them by steepening and refracting the incoming waves and transporting sediment. Understanding and efficiently predicting these nearshore dynamics is important for the accurate design of beach and flood defences, and is typically achieved with wave-averaged models, which can be run over much longer times than can wave-resolving models (like Boussinesq models). The work being undertaken here is to develop an efficient wave-averaged model to simulate many of these dynamics.

Aims:
  • A 2DH numerical model of wave transformation and nearshore circulation will be developed and validated (against idealized cases as well as flume and basin datasets and, ultimately, field data).
  • The ultimate goal is to develop a morphodynamical model in order to predict beach evolution in the short term

Reference Materials relating to this project

None available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last Updated : Wednesday, August 6, 2003